Earlier today, we welcomed two more classics into the Bridge Classic Cars workshop – our 1981 Austin Allegro Vanden Plas and our 1986 Fiat X1/9.
1981 Austin Allegro Vanden Plas
Clearly a stunning car, our Allegro looks to be in fantastic condition. Once it has had a check over by the workshop team, it will be going live ready to be won through Bridge Classic Cars Competitions.
1986 Fiat X1/9
Formerly part of the Robert Furniss Riding collection, our 1986 Fiat X1/9 has now made its way to us here at Bridge Classic Cars.
This week, we have seen 2 lucky winners take delivery of the classics they have won through Bridge Classic Cars Competitions.
On Thursday, Molly, Nick, and Tony made the drive to Wolverhampton to drop off our 2006 Morgan 4/4 70th Anniversary to Emma. Despite Emma being the winning ticket holder, she wanted her dad to have the car and, as you can see from the photos, both seemed very happy with their win.
Then, today, we welcomed David and his friend Richard into the Bridge Classic Cars workshop. As David lives just a little bit down the road from us, he came to collect his 1988 Mercedes 300SL in person.
While he was here, Nick gave them a tour of the workshop, Gordon handed over the keys and David drove his new car home.
As our 1989 Daimler Double Six is being prepared to be won through Bridge Classic Cars Competitions, Jon has been completing some repairs. Here is what he has been up to:
Reassemble after paint job. Refit boot trims and panels. Remove battery and charge. Reassemble removed parts from paint job. Clean battery tray and paint black. Fit modified battery hold down brackets and fit battery and secure. Help Lydia refit sunroof. Particularly awkward to get aligned. Lubricate and keep adjusting until satisfied with operation. Leave in the shut position to settle new seal in place. Refit wiper arms and wipers and test.
Investigate horn not working when refitting steering wheel centre push. Trace to earth fault but leave for now. Carry out full inspection and report. Grease all points. Reposition nearside driveshaft covers to gain access to grease nipples.
Our Mercedes-Benz 300SL was originally delivered by Mercedes-Benz main dealer Callanders of Glasgow to Cheshire Products Ltd on March 18, 1988. Initially serving as a director’s vehicle for six years before moving on to its second owner on March 25, 1994. After looking after the car for 24 years, it was eventually passed on to the third owner on May 25, 2018. Following a brief ownership, our 300SL found its way to its most recent owner on April 18, 2020.
Nautical Blue Metallic with a contrasting Cream leather interior
85,000 miles
Original factory hardtop
Four owners from new
Recent expenditure of over £15,000
History file of service stamps, past MOTs, and invoices
Our 1979 Triumph Spitfire was recently transported ready to be filmed in preparation for it to be available to win through Bridge Classic Cars Competitions.
Finished in a two-tone paint scheme of bronze over cream and accompanied by matching leather work on both the main and fold-back seat, our BMW R1150 has the right feel to blend both performance and comfort while out on the open road.
Aircooled 1130cc boxer engine
Striking bronze over cream paint scheme with matching leather
Less than 30,000 miles in 20 years
Modern take on the classic R-series BMW motorcycle
Our 2007 Land Rover Defender was suffering from a battery drain which John traced back to the wiring to a relay. The wiring was modified to bypass the relay which wasn’t needed. A permanent ignition feed was also fitted for the rear-view camera.
The car was then checked over before it is won on Tuesday.
During the checks, our other Jonn made the following notes:
Carry out inspection. Start repairs. Reverse lights still not working after new switch fitted. Remove multi plug and short out. Ignition on and reverse lights working. Remove switch from gearbox and grind away nut slightly so switch goes further into gearbox. Test switch plugged in but not fitted to gear ox. Operate and light works. Fit to gearbox and tighten. Test reverse lights, now working. Adjust hand brake via transmission brake shoe adjuster. Strip and remove brake pipes from across rear axle to replace.
Manufacture new brake pipes for rear. From rear flexis to calipers. Secure and cable tie Abs wiring to pipes. Remove bleed nipples and clean and blow out, refit. Inflate tyres and torque wheel nuts. Adjust washer jetvaim and test. Resecure trim around nearside rear door lock button.
Fit new rear wiper blade. Raise on ramp mp and strip rear flexi brake pipes. Corroded badly and unable to remove brake pipes from flexis. Cut front to rear brake pipes and chisel off bracket supporting rear flexis. Get Christian to make a new support bracket. Mount new flexis at axle end and secure to mount. Reconnect brake pipes across rear axle. Upon inspection found joiners for front to rear brake pipes on top of nearside chassis rail.
Manufacture new brake pipes to rear flexis. Fit each in turn shaping pipe as its fitted. Drill and paint new mount and fit and connect pipes at each end. Use small pieces of hose to protect pipes from chaffng and secure with cable ties.clear up area.
Top up brake fluid and free of all bleed nipples. With John’s help bleed brake system complete. Carry out pressure check. Tack weld weights back onto rear rpropshaft. Take outside and warm up. Carry out road test. Recheck all joints and connections on return and found small weep at nearside chassis joiner. Drain circuit and re flare original steel pipe on car. Reconnect and tighten. Re bleed circuit and pressure check. Ok this time. Carry out road test to fuel station and put £30 diesel in. Finish pdi, ok.
Classic car technician Jonn has completed the PDI on our 1976 MG Midget. It is now ready to be delivered to its lucky new owner. Jonns notes about the work completed are:
Drain coolant header tank and replenish with new anti freeze.
Get car round into workshop and raise on ramp. Inspect underneath for signs of knocking on floor. Found exhaust been made and stting close to rear axle and floor. Drop exhaust and grind away section of rear floor to add clearance and remount higher in relation to where it was. Grease all points. Lower to floor and check carburettors. Remove suction Chambers and pistons and clean. Use vernier to set jet heights to approx 1.7mm. Reassemble but pistons sticking in Chambers. Found air filter gaskets protruding over carburettor edge not allowing Chambers to sit flush. Cut off excess gasket from both air filters and retry. Chambers sit flush and pistons return freely. Fit P clip to fuel pipe to secure to air filter bolt. Replace both ends of rubber fuel hose. Lower to floor. Torque all wheels. Take outside and run up to temp. Adjust mixture and carry out road test. Drives better but knock still present. Get back in and rase in air. Check gearbox mount as knock seems to come from this area. Fou d metal on gearbox mount hitting floor. Fit piece of rubber between mount and floor and take outside and retest. Ok now. Bond gear knob back onto stick. All ok.
We have recently welcomed another car into the Bridge Classic Cars workshop. This time it is our 1964 Ford Zephyr 4, which will soon go live on the Bridge Classic Cars Competitions website.
Jonn has been looking at our new arrival and here are his notes:
Top up gearbox and axle oils. Strip brakes and inspect. Remove offside front calliper.
Thoroughly degrease calliper and clean all components. Remove piston from calliper and found it badly pitted and unserviceable. Check rear brakes to find cylinders weeping, shoes contaminated and hub seals weeping. Order parts….. refit wheels and drums until parts arrive. Remove fuel tank sender. Strip and lubricate and free off. Refit and test, ok. Tidy wiring under bonnet.
Remove air filter and fixed throttle linkage. Cut small pieces of wood to use as battery security. Make small strap from alloy to hold down battery and cover in sticky back foam. Drill out inner wing and bolt up strap. Clean out washer bottle and top up and test. Adjust washer aim. Test dynamo charging. Remove dynamo and regulator to send for repair. Remove exhaust completely and take to Fab shop for repair. Suck out old fluid from both master cylinder reservoirs and top up with new.
Jonn has been looking at our 1978 Triumph Spitfire. His notes are below:
Finish as much of the inspection as possible on the floor. Carry out repairs. Sort connections to nearside reverse lights. Remove offside door handle and inspect. Strip apart and clean components. Lubricate and reassemble and test. Works fine. Refit to drivers door and test. Still the same. When it has to release the pressure of the lock it slips past p clip inside handle. Requires new handle.
On Tuesday (6th February), Keith Stoddart was the lucky winner of our 1989 Ford Fiesta XR2 when his ticket number, 4198 was randomly selected by Google’s random number generator.
Keith lives up in Scotland, almost 400 miles away from the Brideg Classic Cars workshop here in Suffolk.
However, we have a wealth of experience transporting vehicles so, just over 24 hours later, Tony was pulling up at Keith’s house and handing him the keys to his new car.
Tony said it was a beautiful drive across the Pennines and was welcomed to Scotland with snow! On his way, he even managed to stop in an appropriately named shop to look for a memento or two.
It was quite late in the day when Tony finally arrived at the car’s new home but, as lucky winner Keith said, “It was well worth the wait”
As our 1982 Bedford HA Van is now live on the Bridge Classic Cars Competitions website, classic car technician Jonn has been looking at it to make sure it is ready to go to the lucky winner in a couple of weeks time.
Here are his notes:
Take into workshop to finish inspection. Secure rear brake pipe to piece to rear axle. Secure wiring in offside front arch. Remove screw from offside rear tyre, not punctured. Tighten fuel tank union. Check axle and gearbox levels, ok. Tighten front crash bar. Strip brakes and inspect. Remove nearside rear adjuster and free off. Refit and adjust shoes. Delip all drums. Regrease and adjust offside front wheel bearing.
Strip and remove offside rear half shaft and bearing. Heat up bearing to remove but unable to at this point. Christian cut some plates for me to use. Heat up again and use plates to hold bearing whilst knocking half shaft from above. Remove and clean all surfaces. Make new hub gasket and clean backplate, ready for new bearing etc.
Remove rocker cover and associated parts. Check and adjust tappets. Found clearances were massive on most. Setting 0.08thou or 0.2mm. Some clearances were up to as much as 0.80thou or 2mm!!! Set to correct clearances and refit rocker cover etc. Check operation of seats. Both slide but you have to be sat in them. Found key for doors but no door lock will operate via key. If it is the correct key.
Press new wheel bearing and spacer onto half shaft. Lube o ring on bearing and hammer back into axle. Secure seal flange and backplate. Refit drum and wheel and adjust brake. Lower to ground and torque up all wheels to 68nm. Inspect drivers door lock. Remove door panel and view mechanism inside door. Found lock barrel on handle not fitted correctly. Reposition barrel inside door and test. Ok. Refit door panel. Check passengers door locks from inside. Reposition handles.
The old roof panel on our 1972 Morgan 4/4 was badly damaged and beyond repair. The hood was also very tight, making it hard to put up, especially on your own. Lydia inserted a new panel and added an inch onto the depth, making it much easier to put onto the hood frame now.
Before our 1982 Bedford HA Van goes live on Bridge Classic Cars Competitions, Jonn has been inspecting it. He attended to the throttle not being connected. He found that the linkage was actually a mechanical one and had fallen off so Jonn reconnected it to the throttle pedal.
Jonn has been inspecting our 1992 Mercedes SL300 in preparation for it to be won next week through Bridge Classic Cars Competitions.
His notes were:
Complete inspection. Remove rear wheels (wheel nuts extremely tight and hard to remove)and check, clean brakes and adjust handbrake shoes. Unable to remove front wheel studs at this stage. Knock each stud with hammer and lubricate and leave to penetrate. Attempt to remove but feel like they are going to break. Raise in air. Extend hole in brake backplate to access studs with drill. Drill the rear of each stud. Heat each stud and then lower to ground to hopefully remove.
Repeat process for each stud. Managed to get all wheel studs out eventually without drilling into all. 1 broke upon removal. Replace 3 studs in the end that were damaged. Check and inspect front brakes and clean. Clean all,wheel studs and lubricate threads. Refit all wheels. Inflate tyres to correct pressure. Lower to ground and torque all wheel studs to 110nm. Drain radiator. Remove coolant header tank and clean out.
Refit header tank. Change top hose, radiator overflow return to header tank. Use vacuum tool to refill cooling system with new antifreeze. Investigate offside front fog light not working. Check bulb and power supply. Bulb ok, but no power. Trace wiring up behind headlight. Remove headlight to gain access to loom. Found multiplug corroded. Clean and check light works. Ok. Reassemble headlight etc and test operation. Fit new bolts to undershield to secure. Top up automatic transmission and check, ok.
Unwrap new pieces bought for interior. Strip both and swap required parts. Wrap sliding armrest pad. Solder repair wires to armrest storage light and fit to car. Test, ok. Remove glovebox light and fit bulb correctly. Lubricate as was sticking. Refit and test, ok. Remove internal mirror. Tighten ball socket joint to stop mirror wobbling. Remove mirror fixing and remove interior light. Investigate why nearside not working.
Charge battery. Fit new bulb to interior light and bend tangs/connections and test, ok. Remove old drivers seat control panel. Swap switch pack to new veneered panel. Fit and test, all,ok. Repeat process for passengers seat control panel. But passengers seat doesn’t work. Investigate. Check and replace both fuses for seat control. Check for power to switches, ok. Remove and disassemble switch pack and visually inspect. Re solder all joints and test. Working now but packed up after fitting switch to panel. Remove and repeat solder but drop fresh solder onto each joint. Reassemble and fit. Disconnect roof wire and unlock roof with roof button. Lift off hard top and operate soft top. Working fine but roof tight. Manually assist in locking in rear section. Leave like this to stretch material out. Roof looks in really good condition. Just require jack to put in boot, new reg plates fitted when they arrive and a road test to finish.
Our 1963 Vauxhall Victor recently went live on the Bridge Classic Cars Competitions website. As it is scheduled to be won very soon, Jonn has been making some repairs to make sure it is ready to go to the lucky winner.
He has removed the inline fuel filter, cleaned it out, blew it through, and refitted it to the car.
Jonn then stripped and removed the nearside front upper ball joint rubber. This was cleaned, and a new rubber boot was fitted and secured. After refitting the top arm to the hub and tightening using a new split pin, Jonn refitted the wheel and repeated the process for the offside front upper too.
The radiator was drained. and Jonn removed the top hose and ran water through the radiator and engine to flush out rusty brown water. Antifreeze and water were mixed to make a 50/50 mix. The pipe connections to the radiator were cleaned and a vacuum pressure filling machine was used to refill the system.
Jonn topped the antifreeze mix up with a small amount when he had finished before cleaning up and checking the anti-freeze content. Protection down to minus 18 degrees Celsius is now covered, as shown in the last photo of the refractometer sight glass.
A new washer pump was also fitted. To do this, Jonn had to re-drill the fixings as the new pump wouldn’t align with the old holes. He then cut and fitted the washer pipes and tested them. The washer jet aim was adjusted appropriately before all tyre pressures were adjusted to 26psi.
Lucky winner, Mike Bartlett, was delighted when he accepted the delivery of his 1968 Morris 1000 Pickup.
After being drawn as the winner on the last live draw of 2023, Mike, with ticket number 4032, won this stunning pickup as well as having £1000 transferred to his bank in time for Christmas.
Everyone here at Bridge Classic Cars would like to congratulate Mike again and we hope he enjoys his very own festive classic.
Earlier this week, we delivered our 1970 Lotus Europa to lucky winner Timothy Chapman.
Timothy was randomly selected as the winner during the live draw with his ticket number 784.
Everyone here at Bridge Classic Cars loved this car and we are very happy to see it at home with its new owner. We all hope that Timothy enjoys it for many years to come.
When Robert Alfonso was drawn as the lucky winner of our Jaguar E-Type through Bridge Classic Cars Competitions, its restoration wasn’t quite finished.
As the competition sold out more than a month early, there was still some work to be done before the car was ready to be delivered. However, so Robert didn’t have to wait any longer, we invited him to the workshop so he could finally get to see his E-Type.
The video below shows the moment he saw his beautiful car for the very first time!
Two of our competition cars have been under the care of classic car technician Jonn recently.
First up is our 1984 Ferrari 308 GTSi, which is currently live on the Bridge Classic Cars Competitions website. Jonn has now fitted the new front and rear number plates in preparation for our classic Ferrari to be won in the new year.
Jonn has also been completing the pre-delivery inspection of our 2015 Jaguar F-Type which will soon be delivered to the lucky winner and new owner, after winning this beautiful car on Tuesday.
Before our 2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage got delivered to its new owner (who was lucky enough to win it through Bridge Classic Cars Competitions), Jonn put it through a pre-delivery inspection.
He applied a lockwire to the rear exhaust heatshield to tighten and stop a rattle. He then replaced the 20amp fuse for the cigarette lighter and tested it.
Jonn then wire-brushed all the flexi hose ferrules and anti-roll bar links.
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