Projects

Rover P5 Repairs

Here are Jonn’s notes relating to the repairs completed on our 1973 Rover P5: Continue replacing coolant hoses. Cut top rad hose and fit fan

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Dry Ice Blasting

Our 1973 Ferrari 246 GTS has been making some good progress in its restoration journey here at Bridge Classic Cars. It recently underwent dry ice

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Rover P5 Hoses

Classic car technician Jonn has been working on our 1973 Rover P5. Here are his notes: Checklist of work to be carried out. Work towards

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Austin Devon Cab

The cab of our 1951 Austin Devon has continued to make progress with painter Alan. After being prepped, epoxy primer was applied to the cab

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MG Midget Service

Technician Steve has been working on our 1978 MG Midget. He prepared the sump and gearbox for new gaskets before fitting new front brake hoses

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Pre Mot Check

Jonn has been getting our 2010 Jaguar XKR Supercharged ready for its MOT. Here are his notes: Torque up sump bung. Refit undershields and secure.

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A Caterham Arrives

We recently welcomed our 2007 Caterham Seven Roadsport 120 into the Bridge Classic Cars workshop. Soon after it arrived, Jonn got to work inspecting it

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Conquest Delivery

Our 1954 Daimler Conquest has been successfully delivered to its lucky new owner who won this stunning classic through Bridge Classic Cars Competitions.

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500 SL Progress

Jonn has been cleaning up the wiper motor and mounting brackets of our 1987 Mercedes 500SL. He then cleaned and checked the operation of the

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Rover 75 Work

Christian has cut out the sill ends, fabricated new ones, and drilled out the panels that were in the way of the rust on the

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Dino Welding

Christian has been continuing his work on our 1973 Ferrari Dino. He fabricated and started welding in the front valance and removed the heater blowers.

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A Big Trip For Our Seven

Tony recently made the long drive up to Scotland to deliver our 1933 Austin Seven to lucky winner Garry.

Rover P5 Repairs

Here are Jonn’s notes relating to the repairs completed on our 1973 Rover P5:

Continue replacing coolant hoses. Cut top rad hose and fit fan control in hose. Waiting for thermostat. Raise and replace propshaft centre bearing mounts. Resecure. Lube prop slider joint. Remove offside front wheel. Strip and replace track rod end rubbers and bottom ball joint rubber. Free off track rod ends and paint track rods. Strip and fit new brake pads. Reassemble.

Secure all offside joints. Tighten steering box drop arm nut and lock tab. Remove nearside front wheel and repeat process from offside. Replace both track rod and top and bottom ball joint rubbers. Strip and fit new front pads.

Finish fitting nearside front brake pads. Refit wheels and torque up. Lower onto wood and strip and replace both rear spring rear mounts. Make gasket and fit thermostat. Fit rad hoses and leave to set. Carry out oil and filter change.

Check power steering oil and transmission oil. Both look nice cherry red and perfectly acceptable to leave as is. Vacuum fill cooling system. Trace wiring in armour under bonnet into car and to rev counter. Wire originates inside column. Strip and remove steering wheel and cowling. Trace wire to ignition switch. Cut off armouring and pull wire through into car. Solder back together under dash. Start car an check rev counter working ok. Refit ignition switch and cowling. Check horn issue. Bend contact inside cowling so to make better Co tact with column connector. Refit steering wheel and test with screwdriver. Horn works ok. Refit centre push and test but horn not working. Pull out contact inside steering column and retry. Centre push works fine now. Secure Centre.

Attend to lights issue. Fit terminal and connect earth wire from offside headlight. And for nearside sidelight. Solder longer wire onto earth so able to reach earth point on inner wing. Connect new main beam foot switch and test, ok. Secure footswitch into mount and refit carpet. Testable lights, ok. Test wipers and washers, ok. Found small,patch of oil on floor from engine sump bung. Drain oil into clean drainer and save. Fit new sump bung washer and refit. Refill oil. Remove servo pipe. Found seal to servo split. Clean and paint pipe and restick seal into servo. Tidy wiring.

Look at carbs prior to running. Found chokes unevenly matched. Adjust choke on nearside carb. Remove pistons and check jet depths with and without choke. Remove float bowl tops and found brown muck at the bottom of each float bowl. Clean and blow out. Remove and clean out fuel filter. Reassemble and check for leaks with ignition in and fuel pump running. Float bowl gaskets wet now. Start car. Started but no power and won’t rev as was when car first arrived. Investigate. Check fuel supply. Offside float bowl full but carb appears dry inside. Check that engine is making vacuum ok. Remove offside carb and check/clean. No obvious fault found.

TVR Charging Issues

Jonn has been investigating a charging issue with our 1994 TVR Chimaera. Here are his notes:

Looked in to car not charging. Battery light not illuminating on dash. Investigated wiring to alternator checking feeds and connections. Warning light wiring was in the incorrect place. Reposition wiring to correct position and check light on dash, now illuminating . Tighten fan belt as slipping and check charging rate. Charging at 14.3v

One Of The Best Ford Zephyrs

Our 1959 Ford Zephyr has recently gone live on the Bridge Classic Cars Competitions website.

This is one of, if not, the best example you will find of this memorable classic.

Following a three-year restoration by its previous owner, our Zephyr looks incredible and will make the winner an extremely happy one!

  • Electronic ignition
  • 2600cc engine with 3-speed manual gearbox
  • Fully restored between 2017 and 2020
  • Under 3,000 miles since the completion of the restoration
  • Finished in Pacific Blue over Ermine White paintwork with Two-Tone Grey interior trim
  • Attended numerous shows around the country as well as touring the Lakes and Scarborough.
  • Bridge Classic Cars Pre-Delivery inspection

All the details are here.

Fabricating Austin Devon Parts

Clinton has spent quite a bit of time recently fabricating some new components for our 1951 Austin Devon Pickup.

His focus has been on the bed buck. As you can see from the photos below, the newly fabricated components are a big improvement from the original ones.

Progress continues to be made and we are looking forward to seeing our Austin Devon continue on its restoration journey.

Dry Ice Blasting

Our 1973 Ferrari 246 GTS has been making some good progress in its restoration journey here at Bridge Classic Cars.

It recently underwent dry ice blasting as part of this process which was an interesting sight to see.

Dry Ice Blasting

Dry ice blasting is a cleaning process that uses solid carbon dioxide (COโ‚‚) pellets (dry ice) as a blasting medium. For cleaning a car, itโ€™s an eco-friendly alternative to more abrasive methods, such as sandblasting.


1. Preparation:

  • The car is first prepared by removing loose parts and securing areas that donโ€™t need to be cleaned.
  • The dry ice pellets are loaded into a specially designed blasting machine.

2. Blasting Process:

  • The dry ice pellets are propelled at high speed using compressed air from the machine through a nozzle, aimed at the carโ€™s surface or parts that need cleaning.
  • As the dry ice hits the surface, it instantly sublimates (changes from solid to gas) upon impact, leaving no residue behind.

3. Cleaning Action:

  • Thermal shock: When dry ice hits the surface, it causes a rapid temperature drop, making dirt, grease, paint, and other contaminants brittle.
  • Micro-explosions: As the dry ice sublimates, it expands almost 800 times its original volume. This creates tiny explosions that lift dirt and contaminants off the surface without damaging the underlying material.
  • The contaminants, now loosened, can be easily blown away or wiped off.

4. Residue-free:

  • Since dry ice evaporates into COโ‚‚ gas, there is no secondary waste like with sand or water. Only the removed debris (dirt, grease, rust) needs to be cleaned up afterwards.

5. Safe for Delicate Surfaces:

  • Dry ice blasting is non-abrasive, meaning it wonโ€™t damage paint, glass, or other sensitive components. It can effectively clean sensitive parts like the engine bay or the underside of a car without the risk of rust or corrosion that water-based cleaning might cause.

Benefits for Cars:

  • No chemical residue: It’s an environmentally friendly method as no harsh chemicals are involved.
  • Non-abrasive: Safe for cleaning without damaging surfaces like aluminium, chrome, or painted parts.
  • Minimal cleanup: As dry ice evaporates, there’s less mess to deal with, unlike other methods that use sand or water.
  • Restores original look: Especially useful for removing oil, grease, undercoating, and contaminants without damaging the surface.

Common Uses in Car Detailing:

  • Engine Cleaning: Removes grease and oil without needing to dismantle parts.
  • Underside: Cleans off dirt, rust, and road debris effectively, leaving a clean surface.
  • Paint Preparation: Removes old paint, adhesives, or sealants in preparation for a new paint job, without damaging the metal surface.

Dry ice blasting is an efficient, safe, and eco-friendly method to clean cars, particularly for those looking to maintain or restore vehicles to like-new condition.


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Ready For A Long Drive

Our 1933 Austin Seven is all set for its long journey up to Scotland to its new owner.

After Jonn completed his pre-delivery inspection on the car, Tony loaded it into the trailer ready for his long drive North tomorrow.

Rover P5 Hoses

Classic car technician Jonn has been working on our 1973 Rover P5. Here are his notes:

Checklist of work to be carried out. Work towards running engine as next stage. Remove all old coolant hoses. Clean all old jubilee clips to reuse where possible. Clean pipe outlets and start fitting new hoses.

Continue to clean and fit new coolant hoses. Thoroughly clean up metal pipes on bulkhead.

Austin Devon Cab

The cab of our 1951 Austin Devon has continued to make progress with painter Alan.

After being prepped, epoxy primer was applied to the cab as well as to some of the other components that will eventually go back together as our classic pickup is rebuilt.

Classic Cars In Storage

Tony has recently taken 2 of our classic cars and put them safely into our secure storage facility.

Our 1953 Austin A40 and our 1984 Rover SD1 (a very special 1 of 1 car!)

We also sourced a donor car for our SD1 in preparation for its restoration.

Daimler SP250 Dart Service

Bridge Classic Cars workshop manager, John has been carrying out a full service on our 1963 Daimler SP250.

He repaired some wiring, changed the wheels around, and adjusted the wheel alignment.

MG Midget Service

Technician Steve has been working on our 1978 MG Midget.

He prepared the sump and gearbox for new gaskets before fitting new front brake hoses and flushing the brake fluid out.

Steve then fitted a new oil filter, air filters, points, and condenser.

Pre Mot Check

Jonn has been getting our 2010 Jaguar XKR Supercharged ready for its MOT. Here are his notes:

Torque up sump bung. Refit undershields and secure. Carry out pre mot check over. Torque wheels and inflate tyres. Locking wheel nut socket back in boot.

Fit new oil filter and top up oil. Refit engine cover, run and t3st. Carry out road test to warm up. Leave outside with ignition on for 10 mins to display oil level. Top up oil once display working. Recheck oil level, ok.

A Caterham Arrives

We recently welcomed our 2007 Caterham Seven Roadsport 120 into the Bridge Classic Cars workshop.

Soon after it arrived, Jonn got to work inspecting it and rectifying some issues. He removed the headlights, removed the chrome rings and fit the right-hand headlights to the chrome rings.

He then swapped the bulbs over, refitted the lights and connected the bulbs before testing.

XKR Oil and Filter

Jonn has been looking at our 2010 Jaguar XKR. After getting it up on the ramp, he drained the oil and changed the filter.

Two More Deliveries

Tony has been out on the road again delivering two vehicles to their very happy owners.

The first was our 1959 Jensen 541R. After loading it into the trailer, it was soon back home.

The second delivery was to the lucky winner of our 1960 BSA A10.

More Jensen Work

Classic car technician Paul has started preparing the front suspension for our 1960 Jensen 541R.

Fiat 500 Clutch Adjustment

Here is what Jonn has been up to with our 1963 Fiat 500:

Investigate clutch issue. Has been fine but clutch went over the weekend. Inspect. Found clutch cable adjuster out of adjustment. Re adjust cable and check. Fit lock nut to clutch cable. Remove cover and inspect while John operates. All looks OK now adjustment correct. Carry out test around yard and all seems fine. Refit cover. Quick spanner check on starter and gearbox bolts. Carry out another drive around yard. Ok. Let customer take and try.

Sender Calibration Unit

Workshop Manager John has been fitting a Spiyda calibration unit to the tank gauge of our 1956 Jensen 541. This is to match the sender to the gauge.

Conquest Delivery

Our 1954 Daimler Conquest has been successfully delivered to its lucky new owner who won this stunning classic through Bridge Classic Cars Competitions.

500 SL Progress

Jonn has been cleaning up the wiper motor and mounting brackets of our 1987 Mercedes 500SL.

He then cleaned and checked the operation of the fuel pumps and brackets.

Rover 75 Work

Christian has cut out the sill ends, fabricated new ones, and drilled out the panels that were in the way of the rust on the wheel arches on our 2003 Rover 75 Club SE.

Mauro then prepped the car for paint. He pulled the dents out and added some filler. After Mauro cut the wheel arch off, more rust spots were found.

Epoxy primer was then applied to the bonnet and primer was also applied to some of the panels from the car.

Once the dents were smoothed out on the rear bumper, these were also primed.

The boot was also primed.

Toyota Celica Cam Belt

Here are Jonns notes from his recent work on our 1995 Toyota Celica GT-Four:

Carry out full inspection. Start on the floor and move 5o ramp when available. Strip and fit new stop and tail bulb to offside rear light and strip and fit new number plate bulbs and test, ok. Inflate all tyres and torque wheel uts when inspection finished. Adjust handbrake via shoes. Clean rear diff area. Strip offside front arch liner and gain access to washer pump which is not working. Disconnect multi plug and check with multi meter. With Rob operating switch, check that power supply and earth are present. All ok, requiresnew washerpump. Carry out road test. Car suspension is very firm and “crashy” over rough terrain but can’t find any play or movement at all. Car drives fine on the road. Complete pdi sheet at ge same time, ok.

Strip engine and remove cambelt. Check water pump, ok. Remove idler and tensioner pulleys. Press automatic tensioner body back and fit pin to hold in place. Ready for new belt kit when it arrives.

Fit new cambelt tensioner and idler pulley. And start reassembly.

Finish cambelt and reassemble. Fit old battery from under my bench and modify clamp to secure. Run and test. All ok. Drain washers and fit new pump. Refillmand test. Still jot working. Pump working but pipes blocked. Blow out front pipe and test, ok. Rear headlining wet so drop head lining and found pipe disconnected at washer jet. Reconnect and test. Ok. Refit headlining and carry out road test. All ok. Refit undershields.

Fiat 1900A Carpets

The carpets are of our 1952 Fiat 1900A are now finished and what a transformation this has made to the car!

Here is what Lydia had to say about it:

“Before, the car was looking dark, dingy and depressing, and now it has been given a new lease of life with these stunning woollen carpets and mats. The carpet has been lovingly trimmed with a complimentary green edging.

Our 1900A will likely be the envy of Fiat owners everywhere when they lay their eyes on the pea-green masterpiece. Please take note of the fabulous custom stitched heel mat, also made from the complimentary green vinyl, adding a touch of je ne sais quoi to the vehicle.”

Steve also refurbished the hand brake shoes and refitted them as the old ones were contaminated from the leaking differential seal which has also now been replaced.

Ferrari 400 Repairs

Here are Jonns notes on the repairs he has been making to our 1979 Ferrari 400 GT:

Rebuild door handle and test. Remove striker/ actuator i made and bend slightly and refit. Seems to be ok but lock stiff and key nearly broken. Stop and wait for new keys to arrive. Investigate passengers seat back insecure. Found inner hook for relaesing seat back been wired 8n open position. Cable inside seat broken. Make small bracket to fit to hook so able to lift manually. Fit and paint black. Coolant leaks. Start with corroded jubilee clips on heater pipe. Remove pipe and found pipe split badly, and connector corroded. Remove connector and clean. Use JB weld chemical metal to repair holes on connector and leave to set. Clean mating surfaces and make gasket for connector.

Strip and remove exhaust system. Cut of rear sections and cut and remove what’s left in rear sections. Re rivet heatshiels to floor both sides. Fit new P clip to secure offside handbrake cable. Fit water connector to rear of head and leave to go off overnight.

Fit coolant hose to heater. Pressurise system and trace leaks. Rad hoses leaking and all jubilee clips corroded and won’t tighten. Remove rad hoses and inline thermostat. Thermostat broken inside housing. Clean all pipe connections. Wash down front of engine waterpump area. Fit new hoses that we had in stock and order new thermostat and hoses we don’t have. Rek9ve offside front wheel and strip and remove brake flexi hoses fro replacement. Fit 2 x new hoses to offside front and secure.

Bleed offside front brake and pressure check for leaks, ok. Top up brake fluid. Refit wheel. Attend to horn not working. Connector missing inside steering wheel. Remove steering wheel and work out way to make it work. Drill out rivet from connector behind steering wheel. Fit wire andfeed through steering wheel. Tighten steering wheel and fit spade terminal to wire and connect to centre push. Fit centre and test, ok.

New keys arrived so refit nearside door handle and test lock with key. Stiff to operate but does work now. Secure handle in door.

Refit door handle fully and lubricate mechanism. Test functions all ok. Refit door panel.

Fit new coolant hoses and secure. Vacuum system and check for loss of vacuum. Fill system with new anti freeze mix. Attend to oil leak. Trace to gearbox cooler pipes fractured. All pipes seized and while attempting to remove direct from cooler, cooler split. Cut off pipes and remove system complete. Remove broken cotton reel mounts.

Dino Welding

Christian has been continuing his work on our 1973 Ferrari Dino.

He fabricated and started welding in the front valance and removed the heater blowers.

While he was doing that, Steve cleaned the rubber cups and gaiters from the suspension before putting the springs back on the shock absorbers.

The front end was also repaired.

First Look at the All-New MG Cyberster

Yesterday, some of the team at Bridge Classic Cars had the pleasure of spending the day at MG Ipswich for an exclusive first look at the much-anticipated MG Cyberster. The day was a combination of the old and the new, as we joined the celebration of 100 years of MG by having some of our classic MGs in the showroom alongside the Cyberster.

A Day to Remember

We arrived in our selection of classic cars – our 1955 MG Magnette, 1968 MGC, and 2003 MG ZT V8. These all looked very much at home in the shiny showroom.

Some of our members made the trip to see the Cyberster for themselves. They, like us, were extremely keen to get a look at the car that has been making waves in the automotive world as of late. The event was a fantastic opportunity for us all to share nostalgic stories of classic cars as well as talk about the future of MG and the potential of the Cyberster.


The MG Cyberster: A Leap into the Future

The MG Cyberster is a car that not only looks stunning but also has the potential to change the perception of EVs. I think the best way of describing the Cyberster is by calling it a bold statement from MG. A statement that says they are a brand looking to the future with the understanding of the foundation built on the cars of the past.

Naming the Cyberster completely different to classic MGs, designing it from the ground up, and having subtle nods back to the past looks to make it an EV that looks and feels different to a typical EV.

At first glance, the Cybersterโ€™s design is striking. Itโ€™s a low-slung, sleek roadster that immediately conjures up images of MGโ€™s classic roadsters but with a very modern (futuristic?) twist. The aggressive front end, with its sharp LED headlights and aerodynamic lines, gives it a futuristic feel, while the long bonnet and sweeping curves pay homage to MGโ€™s past.


This all-electric roadster is powered by a high-performance battery pack, delivering instant torque and blistering acceleration. The figures are extremely impressive with a 0-60 mph time of under 3 seconds and a top speed that comfortably exceeds 120 mph (GT version). But itโ€™s not just about speed; the Cyberster is designed to be a driverโ€™s car, with responsive steering, a balanced chassis, and a suspension setup that promises to deliver an exciting yet comfortable ride.

A Closer Look at the Cyberster: Review and Impressions

So, whatโ€™s it like to sit behind the wheel of the MG Cyberster? Even before you start driving, itโ€™s clear that this is a car thatโ€™s been designed with the driver in mind. The interior is a blend of high-tech features and luxury materials, with a layout thatโ€™s both intuitive and stylish. The digital dashboard is a centrepiece, offering a range of customisable displays that provide everything from navigation to performance data.

The seats are supportive and comfortable and the faux-leather trim adds an extra element of style and luxury to this incredibly fast car. A personal favourite for me is the scissor doors. This seemed to be a big talking point yesterday so I’m looking forward to seeing the reaction of the first round of owners.


Looking Ahead: Test Drives and Future Events

The day at MG Ipswich was a huge success, but it was just the beginning. Weโ€™re already looking forward to a day in the next few weeks when weโ€™ll be offering test drives of the MG Cyberster. This will be a unique opportunity for our members and guests to experience the car firsthand, and to feel the power and precision that weโ€™ve been raving about.

Weโ€™ll be hosting a full-day event, complete with more classic cars, and of course, plenty of chances to get behind the wheel of the Cyberster.

The MG Cyberster is a bold move by MG to embrace the future while honouring its rich heritage. For those of us at Bridge Classic Cars, itโ€™s a reminder that while we keep the past alive, weโ€™re also excited about what the future holds. And if the Cyberster is any indication, that future is bright, fast, and incredibly exciting.


One response to “First Look at the All-New MG Cyberster”

  1. Alistair shaw avatar

    Wonโ€™t to come

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Working on the 1991 VW Transporter

The team have been working on the 1991 VW T4 Transporter at the Bridge Classic Cars workshop. Our technician Steve has been heading up the work on the van. Starting with some electrical work.

After looking into an issue with the fog lights, Steve found some poor wiring which he rectified with correct, shielded connectors before reinstalling the switch back in place. After that, Steve could move onto servicing the van for its owner.

Along with a fluid change, Steve installed new filters – oil, fuel and air.

Whilst inspecting the vehicle, Steve did find a few items which were brought to the owners attention. The wiper blades had split, which were replaced by the team. The tyre, which Steve had found a screw in, was later sorted out by the owner.