Rob Harvey

Marketing Manager

Dino Underseal

Chris has been undersealing the underneath of our 1973 Ferrari Dino. Tony also collected the wheels ready to go onto the car.

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Stripping Our P4

Classic car technician Steve has been busy stripping our 1963 Rover P4 110. During the strip down, he took measurements to make sure all the

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Engine Bay

Our 1964 Mercedes 230SL has been transported back to the workshop in preparation for its engine work to continue. Its engine bay has been looked

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Jensen In Paint

Our 1960 Jensen 541R has continued to make progress. Various parts have been painted and the wheel tubs are being looked at to see what

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Rover P5 Repairs

Here are Jonn’s notes relating to the repairs completed on our 1973 Rover P5: Continue replacing coolant hoses. Cut top rad hose and fit fan

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Rover P5 Hoses

Classic car technician Jonn has been working on our 1973 Rover P5. Here are his notes: Checklist of work to be carried out. Work towards

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Austin Devon Cab

The cab of our 1951 Austin Devon has continued to make progress with painter Alan. After being prepped, epoxy primer was applied to the cab

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MG Midget Service

Technician Steve has been working on our 1978 MG Midget. He prepared the sump and gearbox for new gaskets before fitting new front brake hoses

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MG Midget – New Hood

Rob has moved the windscreen frame forward on our 1978 MG Midget in order to obtain the correct gap with he quarter light. He then began fitting the new hood.

Inspection And Repairs

Before our 1973 MGB Roadster is delivered to its new owner, Jonn has been checking it over and making some repairs. Here are his notes:

Carry out inspection. Get on ramp and check over. Top up rear axle and grease all points.

Continue inspection. Strip and free off frontbbrakes. Strip clean and inspect rears. Refit drums and adjust. Refit all wheels and knock up tight. Check and inflate tyres. Put new jack in boot. Empty boot ready to restick carpets.

Norton Fuel Tank

The fuel tank of our 1962 Norton Motorbike is now back at the workshop.

More Vehicle Transport

Tony has been busy lately collecting multiple vehicles and securely transporting them to where they need to go.

These include our 1966 MG Midget, 1976 MGB GT, and our 1953 Austin A40.

Dino Underseal

Chris has been undersealing the underneath of our 1973 Ferrari Dino. Tony also collected the wheels ready to go onto the car.

Stripping Our P4

Classic car technician Steve has been busy stripping our 1963 Rover P4 110.

During the strip down, he took measurements to make sure all the chrome trim goes back on the car in the right place later on. He had to remove quite a few bits to remove the front screen as it comes out from the inside rather than the outside like most other cars.

When it came to the rear screen, Steve had to remove the rear seats, parcel shelf, and various internal rear quarter trims to access the rear window retaining clips.

Steve also noted various areas of rust that will need further investigation and welding.

Rover P5 Running Issue

Here are Jonns notes relating to his recent work on our 1973 Rover P5 Coupe:

Rebuild carb and refit. Remove fuse for fuel pump and king ht lead. Remove spark plugs and carry out compression test.

Weld holes on wings and paint

Finish compression test all within spec. Clean, regap and refit spark plugs. Check static timing. Remove nearside rocker cover and check valve position to confirm timing. Clean and refit rocker cover. Drop off front exhaust joint to see if it will rev with exhaust disconnected. Still stuggles to start and rev. Check power supply to coil.11.5v crank over and check. Voltage drops at coil to 10v which maybe why it struggles to fire a nd why spark is inconsistent. Reconnect exhaust. Remove distributor and turn through 1 tooth and refit. Now Has scope for adjustment. Run wire from fuse box to coil inside car and back out nearside.

Tape wire into loom and neaten up. Test. Car eventually started but all fuses lose power when cranking so voltage to coil drops. Connect t to main fuse which is permanent live. Start car and adjust timing. Car revs ok. Nearside carb now leaking. Need to look at wiring diagram.

Remove offside carb. Remove jet tube and connection and refit rubber seal. Refit carb and check for leaks, ok. Remove steering wheel and ignition barrel and access wiring. Remove instrument cluster to trace wiring. View diagram with John’s help work out issue. Reconnect wiring to coil. Check ignition feeds. Wiring to rev counter ter ok. Small wire to coil for rev counter and carvwill run wired this way. Crimp on terminal and shrink wrap wires. Tape up old wires. Refit dash and secure ignition light. Start and test, runs ok and rev counter working. Take outside to warm up. Still not running right or on all cylinders. Suspect offside ca4b again as no fuel flowing from jet when piston raised. Remove carb again. Found small piece of rubber seal blocking tube. Remove and replace seal and retry. No leaks and fule now flows ok. Reconnect pipes and cables. Test. Starts and revs well. Fit new float bowl gaskets.

Investigate throttle linkage hitting air filter assembly. Fit air filter and pipes. Throttle now clear but choke hitting when activated. Remove and reposition cables andrefit air filter. Check for clearance, ok. Run up and take outside. Drive around yard ok. Noise and knock when in reverse. Wipers turn3d on by themselves whilst driving and now park function not working. Bring into workshop onto 4 post ramp.

Raise on ramp. Look for noise/ knock. Degrease prop shaft centre bearing. Jack up rear axle. Put into neutral and rotate both rear wheels in a forward direction, ok no noise. Rotate wheels in a rearward direction and noise from gearbox like bearing noise. Also found a hole in chassis at nearside rear within 30cm of spring hanger.

Engine Bay

Our 1964 Mercedes 230SL has been transported back to the workshop in preparation for its engine work to continue.

Its engine bay has been looked at as the engine continues to make progress at Coltec.

Ferrari 400 GT Exhaust

After Tony collected the exhaust for our 1979 Ferrari 400 GT, Jonn began working on fitting it to the car. Here are his notes:

Start preparing new exhaust. Remove old downpipes and pass pipes. Heat and cut pipes to remove bypass pipes fully. Clean flanges and mating surfaces. Found one front section pipe corroded and holes. Clean and prep for welding.

Continue with exhaust. Repeat procedure for other side silencers. Weld small,bypass back securely to silencer so able to remove remainder of old pipe. Clean and weld small pipe. Find sealing rings and exhaust gasket material from stock that will do the job.

Continue exhaust. Weld repair 1 nearside front pipe and dress weld. Mount both sets of silencers to each side and hang on mounts. Apply sealer to nearside rings and tighten both nearside front flanges.

Caterham Rear Lights

Jonn has swapped and rewired the revere lights and rear fog lights on our 2007 Caterham 120 Roadsport.

Chris also did some paint repairs.

BMW Side Boxes

Chris has prepped, primed, and painted the side boxes of our 2016 BMW S1000 XR.

Jensen In Paint

Our 1960 Jensen 541R has continued to make progress. Various parts have been painted and the wheel tubs are being looked at to see what their shape is like.

Paul fitted the springs to the subframe and prepared the engine mounts for paint too.

Painting Dino Parts

Chris has been painting various components of our 1973 Ferrari Dino in dtm black.

Number Plate Backing

Chris has been prepping and painting with dtm the backing plate for the number plate of our 1955 Aston Martin DB2/4.

A Big Trip For Our Seven

Tony recently made the long drive up to Scotland to deliver our 1933 Austin Seven to lucky winner Garry.

A Visit To Morgan Motor Company

Earlier this week, a group of Bridge Classic Cars members had the opportunity to take a behind-the-scenes tour of the Morgan Motor Company, joined by Molly and Tony. The trip gave everyone an insight into the craftsmanship that goes into producing one of Britainโ€™s most iconic vehicles.

One highlight was seeing the assembly process being done by hand. Our guests got to hear stories of how each car is made-to-order, allowing buyers to truly customise their dream vehicle.

Throughout the day, Molly and Tony kept the atmosphere light and fun, making sure everyone felt involved and had the chance to ask questions.

We want to thank everyone who joined us for this fantastic day out. Itโ€™s the shared passion for classic cars that makes days like these so special. Weโ€™re already looking forward to the next adventure, but for now, we’ll enjoy looking at the photos of a great day.

See our full calendar of events here.


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Rover P5 Repairs

Here are Jonn’s notes relating to the repairs completed on our 1973 Rover P5:

Continue replacing coolant hoses. Cut top rad hose and fit fan control in hose. Waiting for thermostat. Raise and replace propshaft centre bearing mounts. Resecure. Lube prop slider joint. Remove offside front wheel. Strip and replace track rod end rubbers and bottom ball joint rubber. Free off track rod ends and paint track rods. Strip and fit new brake pads. Reassemble.

Secure all offside joints. Tighten steering box drop arm nut and lock tab. Remove nearside front wheel and repeat process from offside. Replace both track rod and top and bottom ball joint rubbers. Strip and fit new front pads.

Finish fitting nearside front brake pads. Refit wheels and torque up. Lower onto wood and strip and replace both rear spring rear mounts. Make gasket and fit thermostat. Fit rad hoses and leave to set. Carry out oil and filter change.

Check power steering oil and transmission oil. Both look nice cherry red and perfectly acceptable to leave as is. Vacuum fill cooling system. Trace wiring in armour under bonnet into car and to rev counter. Wire originates inside column. Strip and remove steering wheel and cowling. Trace wire to ignition switch. Cut off armouring and pull wire through into car. Solder back together under dash. Start car an check rev counter working ok. Refit ignition switch and cowling. Check horn issue. Bend contact inside cowling so to make better Co tact with column connector. Refit steering wheel and test with screwdriver. Horn works ok. Refit centre push and test but horn not working. Pull out contact inside steering column and retry. Centre push works fine now. Secure Centre.

Attend to lights issue. Fit terminal and connect earth wire from offside headlight. And for nearside sidelight. Solder longer wire onto earth so able to reach earth point on inner wing. Connect new main beam foot switch and test, ok. Secure footswitch into mount and refit carpet. Testable lights, ok. Test wipers and washers, ok. Found small,patch of oil on floor from engine sump bung. Drain oil into clean drainer and save. Fit new sump bung washer and refit. Refill oil. Remove servo pipe. Found seal to servo split. Clean and paint pipe and restick seal into servo. Tidy wiring.

Look at carbs prior to running. Found chokes unevenly matched. Adjust choke on nearside carb. Remove pistons and check jet depths with and without choke. Remove float bowl tops and found brown muck at the bottom of each float bowl. Clean and blow out. Remove and clean out fuel filter. Reassemble and check for leaks with ignition in and fuel pump running. Float bowl gaskets wet now. Start car. Started but no power and won’t rev as was when car first arrived. Investigate. Check fuel supply. Offside float bowl full but carb appears dry inside. Check that engine is making vacuum ok. Remove offside carb and check/clean. No obvious fault found.