Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto

On Saturday 16th December, I headed off to our capital city to take in the festive sights and Christmas lights. Whilst in London I paid a visit to my favourite museum, the V&A in Kensington. Filled to the brim with different cultures, art and antiquities, the whole place is a feast for your eyes and your mind. In addition to their regular exhibits the Victoria and Albert museum often play host to temporary installations. Though these vary widely, a fond favourite seems to be the ones that relate to fashion, including this one about Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel.

Chanel at the V&A

The current exhibition, Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, is an excellent example of this. The collection is expansive and documents the rise of Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel right from the start. Each item of clothing is beautifully displayed in order for you to see the attention to detail applied within the construction of each garment. Every sequin glints and every pristine hem is preserved to perfection. The accompanying copy with each item is informative and well presented, I enjoyed myself immensely.

A Brief Biography

Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel was born in Saumur, France in 1883. She had an impoverished start but managed to make a name for herself. By the early 20th century she had become well established within the industry. She was best known in the early days for her millinery and tailored garments befitting of the era. Moving into the 1920’s she began creating trendsetting silhouettes that challenged societal norms and did away with the constraints of fashions from decades past. Her clothing adorned with glistening beads and eye-catching sequins displayed risque hemlines and plunging backs. She created jewellery which blended precious stones into costume-style settings, allowing the rich to flaunt their adornments whilst leaving the real heirlooms at home. Chanel was also known for her cosmetics and fragrances, with much of her iconic branding remaining unchanged even now. I made sure I was wearing Chanel No. 5 for my trip!

The Ford of the Fashion World

Coco Chanel became synonymous with the Little Black Dress. In 1926 American Vogue even described it as being the Ford of the fashion world meaning it was an accessible style to all. Chanel’s style was distinctive and classic whilst still challenging the designers that preceded her. She became a celebrity in her own right and even made it fashionable to catch a suntan for the first time ever!

Gabrielle Chanel: Code Name ‘Westminster’

In 1939 the outbreak of war meant that Chanel had to close her couture house, at this point she remained in Nazi-German occupied France. She was seen to be having relations with Gunther Von Dinklage, a Nazi officer. Her relationship, coupled with her friendship with Winston Churchill, earned her the code name ‘Westminster.’ After the war she was interrogated over her involvement but was never charged however, this affiliation cast a shadow over the Chanel brand that remains even to this day.

At An End

After the war, Chanel moved to Switzerland and didn’t return to Paris until the 1950’s. On her return she once more began to create iconic, luxury clothing and accessories. Many of her designs during this era can still be frequently seen inspiring contemporary fashion. Her tailoring and bag designs are timeless. She continued designing until her death in 1971 aged 87. The Chanel brand remains prevalent and influential to this day.